By now we’ve built a large (and good) list of recommended restaurants in Funchal, so I’ll go through them in chronological order here:
In our first year (2019) we were regulars at "Bistro a Tartaruga" (the turtle). That’s where I first discovered one of Madeira’s specialties:
The famous Espetada Regional – juicy beef tenderloin pieces, traditionally skewered on a bay laurel branch and served hanging vertically over a plate.
And of course the black scabbardfish… but we’ll get back to that later! 😉
Unfortunately, this bistro didn’t survive COVID, so in 2021 we had to look for a new spot.
In 2022 it reopened under new management, but it took a while for the quality to reach the 2019 level again.
By 2024 we found ourselves going back more often — despite the longer walk "from up the hill". 😉
Tartaruga is located just two minutes on foot from the cable car’s lower station heading toward the old fort.
If you’re looking for the street name: Largo do Corpo Santo
(On the map below it’s marked with a white “1” on a black background.)
In 2021 we were lucky to quickly find an alternative with the then insider tip "A Bica"!
Why “insider tip”?
A narrow entrance hidden between a simple hostel and a home furnishings store…
Then a staircase so narrow down into the basement that the first time we thought we were in the wrong place…
Now THAT’s a real insider tip! 😉
And why “then”?
Well — since this restaurant now appears in (very) many guidebooks, it’s become
more than well frequented.
A reservation at regular dining times is absolutely essential!
In 2024 we actually saw a tour group of 15 (!) people arrive without a reservation, expecting to be seated.
But the fact that there are still so many locals dining here is a real seal of quality!
They also serve fantastic espetada and several dishes with black scabbardfish.
You can see a photo further down — as ugly as it looks, it tastes amazing! 😆
You’ll find A Bica: to the left of the large market hall when you’re facing the main entrance!
(on the map below it’s marked with a white “2” on a black background)
In 2023 we “moved up the hill” — from the east (QBST) to the west (Pestana Carlton in the Largo António Nobre area). As a result, the walk to the two restaurants mentioned above became a lot longer...
Phenomenal cakes! For Jörg, chocolate cake in various forms, for Heike, a delicious cheesecake!
Plus the best cappuccino (for us) we’ve had so far! ☕✨
(On the map below it’s marked with a white “3” on a black background.)
Unfortunately, prices have increased massively within a year (from ’23 to ’24).
For example, the lamb chops went from €13.95 to €18.95!!!
(You’ll find it with a reference on the map below.)
If at lunchtime Fish ’n’ Chips is enough, this place is absolutely recommended! 🍽️
Good Irish lager and shandy (Alster or Radler...) — just right for a little break.
Directly above “Mezze” — the two places even belong together! 😉
(on the map below you’ll find a reference)
A culinary déjà vu! 🍛✨
When a restaurant shares the name of our favorite Indian spot, a visit is of course mandatory.
Authentic Indian cuisine sounds promising — especially in terms of heat! 🌶
Anyone ordering it “a bit spicier” should know what they’re getting into — or at least be well prepared. 😄
(on the map below marked with a white “7” on a black background)
A very good menu, including fresh fish that changes daily.
The entire staff is extremely friendly — and if you feel like it, you can have a bit of fun banter with them. 😉
But don’t worry: they won’t intrude if you just want to relax and enjoy.
(on the map below marked with a white “5” on a black background)
A very popular restaurant where a reservation at normal dining times is absolutely necessary.
At first the quality of the dishes varied quite a bit — so it was only conditionally recommended.
This year we went FOUR times — and the quality was consistently ... consistently great! 🎉
(on the map below marked with a white “6” on a black background)
The best and funniest prohibition sign I’ve ever seen in a restaurant or pub!
Click the image to enlarge it ;-)
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